Thursday, 6 October 2016

Did you know?

AMBERGRIS - a substance of animal origin that is a secretion of alimentary canal of sperm whales– mammals of order cetacea, which are an endangered species. The balsamic scent coming from the alimentary canal fragrance-wise is similar to musk. It is used mostly to strengthen the composition. Currently – as the substance is less possible to be obtained – it is replaced with synthetic substances combined with violet extract.

ANISE - it is an annual plant found mostly in South Asia, but also in some regions of Europe. The plant itself has a very intense smell similar to cumin, but it is a little bit stronger and sweeter. It is the anise oil that is used to produce perfumes.
 
B  
BENZOIN (Benjamin's Gum) - it is a type of balsamic resin extracted from bark of two kinds of trees: siamese benzoin and sumatran benzoin. Although it is used in many different ways, e.g. as ingredients of firming and moisturising cosmetics, with perfumes it is mostly used to preserve more elusive components.
BERGAMOT - it is an inedible orange grown in many parts of the world, for example in South Italy, West Africa and Morocco. The fragrant oil derived from the fruit is used in perfume industry since 18th century. Interestingly, to produce 1 kilo of bergamot oil, one needs at least 200 kilos of fruit!
 
C  
CARDAMOM - it is a perennial found in Indian Peninsula, Ceylon, China and Indonesia. It was used as a perfume ingredient in ancient Egypt. It is also one of the most expensive root plants in the world, right after saffron. It gives perfumes a fruit and spicy aroma.
CASTOREUM - it has a very strong scent and is a substance secreted from glands of North American and Syberian Beavers. In perfume making it is used to strengthen the fragrances. Castoreum gives the compositions a sharp, sensual smell.
CEDAR - it is a tree from pine family that is found in mountain regions. Essential oil that is produced from that tree is used in many different perfumes.
CORIANDER - it is a plant commonly grown in Europe. Essential oils of coriander give the compositions exceptionally intense, spicy aroma.
COUMARIN - it is a substance found in grasses and plants from orchid family. It has a fragrance of freshly harvested grass.
CYBET (Cybet Musk) - it is a substance of animal origin – a secretion African Civet's glands. Small amount of that substance in a form of alcohol liqueur is used for heavier and sweet fragrance notes.
 
D  
DAMASK ROSE - it is a less and less occurring variety of roses cultivated in Turkey, Bulgaria, Egypt and Morocco. To produce a kilo of the essential oil one needs 3 tonnes of petals. The aroma of roses is found in all sensual flowery compositions.
 
E  
EUCALYPTUS - it is an evergreen tree or shrub found in Australia, Tasmania, New Guinea, Timor and Philippines. In perfume industry, essential oils produced from leaves and twigs are the most valued.
 
G  
GALBANUM - it is an exceptionally strong resin of a shrub called Ferula Galbaniflua found in the Middle East. It has got a bit musky aroma that gives the composition extraordinary freshness.
GARDENIA - a popular decorative shrub with white flowers of a very strong sweet fragrance.
GERANIUM - found in Europe (South France) and Morocco, Egypt, China and Madagascar, it is an annual plant of a fresh green scent. Essential oils from flowers, stems, leaves, and buds are used in perfume production. 
GUAIACUM TREE (Guaiacum officinale) - is it an evergreen tree found in Central America. With perfume, it is the guaiacum oil that is used and it smells like a combination of tea and wood.
 
H  
HYACINTH - it is a perennial with a strong, heavy, but sweet scent. The flowers are used in perfume production.
 
I  
INCENSE - it is a substance of natural origin which gives the composition spicy-burnt aroma. Incense derives from some species of an incense tree found in Ethiopia and Arabian Peninsula.
IRIS - it is one of the most expensive substances in the world: to produce 100 grams one needs 40 tonnes of rootstock. And the process of acquiring the aroma – from the moment of drying the rootstock, to storing, peeling, boiling and squeezing – lasts more than two years. It is the rootstock that gives the composition a subtle creamy and powdery aroma.
 
J  
JASMINE - it is a shrub with big white, yellow or pink flowers that are used by companies producing perfume. Jasmine is one of the most expensive fragrances and so it is slowly replaced with synthetic substances.
JUNIPER - it is a perennial coniferous shrub of cypress family. In perfume production it is the fruit – a cone – that gives the composition a wood and sweet scent.
 
L  
LAVENDER - it is a very popular plant in around 30 varieties. Lavender oil, which is produced from dried lavender flowers, is used in production of many colognes. To produce a kilo of lavender oil one needs more than 180 kilos of lavender flowers.
LILY OF THE VALLEY - it is a plant with white flowers that give off an intense fresh scent. Essential oils derived from that plant are used mostly in flowery fragrance compositions.
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M  
MAGNOLIA - it is a plant that gives compositions an exceptionally sweet and strong aroma. It can be found mostly in the tropical and subtropical zones.
MANDARIN - it is a very popular tree or shrub known for its juicy fruit, can be found mostly in Japan, Brazil, the south of the United States and the Mediterranean basin. As all the citruses, it gives freshness and a sweet note to any composition.
MANGO - it is a tropical fruit tree that can be found mostly in India and Indochina. It is often used in fruit compositions giving them freshness and a light musky note.
MIMOSA - it is a tropical plant from South America that is very delicate and weak. It is used in perfume production in order to give the compositions a sweet and cool aroma.
MINT - it is cultivated as a remedy plant and as seasoning. Essential oils produced from pepper mint give the compositions refreshing and cooling notes.
MUSK - it is a substance with a very intense scent. It is obtained from glands of goats living in Tibet, China, Nepal and Japan. At first it seems to smell like ammonia and is not really attractive as a fragrance, but after combining it with alcohol solution it changes dramatically and is commonly used to strengthen the compositions. Currently – as the substance is less and less possible to be obtained – it is replaced with synthetic substances.
MYRRH - it is a resin of a shrub found in Ethiopia, that is obtained through cutting the shrub's young twigs. It is one of the oldest fragrances in the world used mostly in fragrances for men. It is a warm but sharp scent with a bitter note to it.
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N  
NARCISSUS - it is a type of perennial with more than 20 varieties that is found mostly in Asia and in the countries of the Mediterranean. It has got a flowery and spicy scent.
NEROLI - it is an oil produced from the flowers of bitter oranges. In perfume production it is used in most flowery compositions. It soothes the fragrances and its scent is a bit sweet.
 
O  
OAK MOSS - it is a plant found mostly in Balkan Peninsula and Morocco. It is an indispensable element of chypre family fragrances. Because of its allergenic features, it is often replaced with synthetic substances.
OSMANTHUS - a shrub of the olive family that is found in South East Asia. The oil from its flowers is a bit sharp but it gives the composition a warm and flowery aroma.
 
P  
PATCHOULI - it is a type of nettle found in Philippines, Indonesia and China. In perfume production its leaves and stems are used. It has a sweet, herbal and earthy scent.
PROVENCE ROSE - it is the most expensive variety of roses cultivated in the south of France. It has exceptionally aromatic full flowers. Due to its high price it is very rare in perfume production.
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S  
SANDAL WOOD - it is a very popular component used in many varieties of perfumes. The essential oil produced from sandal wood is used in many fields, e.g. aromatherapy or as nourishment of dry, dehydrated skin. It has a sweet, resiny, and a bit musky note.
 
T  
TONKA BEAN - it is found in Brazil and Guyana. It is warm, sweet, and has a fragrance similar to rum.
TUBEROSE - it is a plant originally found in Mexico with white heavy smelling flowers. Nowadays it is cultivated in India, Morocco and Egypt. It is the oil from the flowers that is used in perfume production.
 
V  
VANILLA - it is a plant in more than 100 varieties found mostly in tropical zones. It gives the compositions a balsamic, warm and sweet note.
VETIVER - it is a root of grass found in Indonesia, China, Haiti and in Brazil. It gives the compositions spicy and resiny aroma.
VIOLET - it is a very popular flower with more than 800 varieties. It is the leaves that are used to produce perfumes. These flowers have an interesting and exceptionally sweet scent, but because of their unavailability they are often replaced by synthetic substances.
 
Y  
YLANG-YLANG - it is a tropical tree found mostly in South-East Asia and tropical countries. In perfume production it is the oil from the flowers that is used. Ylang-ylang oil is one of the most important resources in the perfume industry. In order to obtain a kilo of essential oil, one needs 50 kilos of flowers.

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